Chinese people love watches. This national preference has a long history. It has also made the major Swiss watch brands keep an eye on the surge in demand in the Chinese market. But in China, there are so many legends about watches. The following will reveal the nonsense of the watch market.
The Chinese love watches, and this has been around since the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty. Watches and clocks are typical European cultures, and they are imported from China. Today, watches and clocks have become the business card of Switzerland, and most of the world’s top watches come from that small country. China and Switzerland are far apart from each other, which is reflected in the horological culture, not only the distance of transportation, but also the distance of cognition. Examining the art of watches and clocks under different cultures will inevitably produce certain deviations, and even various jokes. How many legends exist in today’s watch market? How much nonsense? I have collected some of them and hope that everyone will stop the rumors and get closer to the true nature of watch art.
Top Ten Watches
This is obviously one of the most famous legends affecting watch consumption. Today, if you search the Internet for ‘Top Ten Watches’, there are nearly 900,000 related information. And I know that there is no authority in Switzerland to select the so-called ‘top ten watches’. Because on the issue of watches and clocks, the Swiss are unanimous. As long as they buy Swiss watches, they are rich and frugal. Thousands of brands have never been ranked. The most popular ‘Top Ten Watches’ in the Chinese language circle is the result of the 1999 Hong Kong ‘Watch Forum’ magazine, which has been selected for 14 years. The results of that year’s selection, at the turn of the century, summarized the industry’s elite for the Chinese language circle, which had a very positive effect on promoting consumption in the Far East market. Now if you still hold the list of that year, you are automatically giving up the opportunity to further learn about watch tasting. The ‘Top Ten Watches’ ranking is not only an entry for the temple of watch art, not even the door keys, it is more like a real estate advertisement. The door of the temple still has to be opened by our own study and inquiry. The helpless fact is that it has a longer history than the ‘Top Ten Watches’. In the 1960s, to facilitate the customs’ internal import tax on Swiss imports, the ‘standards of several categories and classes’ are still circulating strongly among the people …
LOGO Strange Talk
The most bizarre weirdness I’ve ever heard was a legend about Rolex and the Omega logo. Some people say that the Omega logo is like a money bag upside down. The Rolex logo is a crown, and that’s what gathers wealth, so it’s good to gather wealth. It’s not over yet. Some people have suggested that Rolex can’t buy a white dial. It’s called ‘Bai Lao’. The above-mentioned weirdness was just a joke made by the Swiss brand during the Chinese language airborne. The most successful localization of the brand name is Piaget. The less satisfactory one is Vacheron Constantin, which has spread in any case, and it is not good to change it.
Various common names
As mentioned earlier, the Chinese have been in touch with Western watches since the late Ming Dynasty. By the Qianlong period to the late Qing Dynasty, they had become one of the largest watch markets in the world. The Chinese like watches, but not many people study them attentively. In order to facilitate the memorization, according to some shapes of the clock or movement structure, the Chinese common name is casually given. Named indiscriminately because of not knowing, the ‘big eight’ of the Qing Dynasty is a good precedent (the pair of Swiss pocket watches produced in the early and mid-19th century were put together, and the movement just split into eight parts and was picked up A snack name). There are also some common names of parts such as: I-shaped wheel, T-shaped wheel, Ma Zi, Feng Shui wheel … ‘Dog Tooth’ has never been used in official Rolex materials. ‘Dog Tooth’ is the common name of the traditional oyster watch bezel. The watch equipped with this bezel looks more luxurious. It was the black boss in Hong Kong films 20 years ago. Favorite. The standard title given by the brand should be ‘triangular pit pattern’, which is a historical relic of the early waterproof case opened from the front. ‘Water ghost’ is another well-known common name. It describes some of Rolex’s most famous professional diving watches. Because divers who really should wear this watch have the nickname ‘water ghost’, their watches also Called a water ghost. Finally, because the colors of the watches are different, so-called green water ghosts, black water ghosts and blue water ghosts have also emerged. Well, I think for the time being: no nickname will not be issued.
Today’s watch market can be said to have achieved ‘world unity.’ The new model launched at this year’s watch fair has almost the same time to climb the counters of European watch shops and the counters of Chinese watch shops. But many people would rather believe that some of the rarer models are the so-called ‘European version (ie European version)’. I have verified that this presumption may have a lot to do with the consumption of Japanese electrical appliances. Remember that when I was a kid, it seemed that people were saying that Japan sells the best products to Europe and the United States, followed by domestic sales in Japan, and the worst products are sold to China . It seems that as long as a watch is called the ‘European version’, it will look higher-end, more atmospheric, and upscale than other models on sale. This is purely self-confidence. Even if you wear the so-called ‘European’ watch, it may not make you look more western.
In people’s usual thinking, pure handmade manufacturing represents craftsmanship, value and rarity, so shop assistants often hang ‘pure handmade’ in their mouths when selling watches. The watchmaking industry is indeed inseparable from manual work, but it is impossible to make today’s high-precision, high-standard good watches by hand. This needs to be seen at the watch factory to understand that the forming of the movement plywood and the formation of key components all rely on the world’s most advanced CNC machine tools. The machine tools used for watchmaking are no different from those used for nuclear weapons. The handwork is mainly reflected in the fine grinding and modification of the blank parts after forming. No machine can replace the handwork in this process. At present, the most cutting-edge development forms of the watchmaking industry are: the movement assembly, oiling and factory testing all have a semi-automated trend, that is, manual work is required but not dependent on manual work, and manual work cannot be completely abandoned. To sum up, ‘pure manual’ is a famous nonsense in the topic of famous watches.
Grandpa has good craftsmanship
In the eyes of ordinary consumers, the master watchmaker should be the kind of grandpa with a white beard with a deep raised head. Yes, such an image is not uncommon in the Swiss watchmaking industry, but it is far from the only grandfather to make watches. The grandfather plays the following important roles in the watch factory: taking apprentices, assembling complex and super-complex function tables, and taking pictures as pictures. 90% of the regular watches everyone buys are done by young and middle-aged watchmakers. Except for watches bought by big collectors, most consumers have little to do with grandpas.
The more expensive the more accurate
Precision is the lifelong pursuit of watchmakers. I believe that everyone used to bring their own watch to the TV station as a child. I have also done this, and I wore a 40-yuan quartz electronic watch in elementary school. It was only 14 seconds slower in the winter, which kept me fresh. With the increase of age and experience, the watches bought have become more and more expensive, but the accuracy of the watches has not improved significantly. Isn’t the watch more expensive the more accurate it is? it’s true. This is due to the difference in travel time between mechanical and quartz electronic watches. Take the Rolex mechanical watch factory standard as an example, two seconds a day (because mechanical watches generally become slower with use), this is already one of the most accurate mechanical watches. The vibration frequency of a Rolex mechanical movement is 4 Hz, which is 28,800VPH as the watch industry refers to, which belongs to the category of high-frequency movements. Many brands of movements can’t reach such high frequencies. But even a quartz electronic watch with a price of several tens of yuan bought by a roadside stall has a frequency of 32,768 Hz. So quartz watches are much more accurate than mechanical watches, but they are very cheap. The value composition of expensive watches comes from brand, craftsmanship, design, materials, culture and other aspects. The more expensive the watch, the more accurate it is. At present, the most accurate watch in the field of civil timekeeping is the radio-controlled timepiece, which receives signals from the timekeeping center at any time, and there is no error in principle. Such a watch is also less expensive than a traditional mechanical watch.
Quartz movement does not preserve value
That’s right, as long as the mechanical watch is regularly maintained for a hundred or two hundred years, it’s no problem. I also heard rumors that ‘quartz movements have a lifespan of only 20 years’. After all, quartz technology has been commercially produced for less than 40 years, and ’20 years of obsolescence’ proved to be unfounded. It is undeniable that in the auction market almost mechanical watches dominate the world. You will also find that even a spire brand like Patek Philippe has never stopped the production and development of quartz movements. Not everyone thinks winding the watch every day is a very enjoyable thing. Many friends, especially female friends, like to pick up the watch at any time and wear it. It must go well. The quartz watch allows you to enjoy it for at least three or four years. It is not particularly troublesome to replace the battery when it is dead, and then you can leave it alone for three or four years. Many factors determine the value of a watch: brand, production, design, material, story, and starting price. In contrast, mechanical movements and quartz movements are not particularly important factors. It’s just that the quartz movement looks far away from the tradition, and the visual beauty is somewhat different.
The automatic watch only leaves
Many friends who bought automatic mechanical watches have complained to me about one thing, saying that their watch stopped after two days without wearing, and then they had to shake the watch to go, and often it is troublesome to adjust the time. I want to clarify: almost all automatic mechanical watches also have a manual winding function. If the energy of the mainspring in the watch is not enough, there is no need to shake the watch vigorously. Unplug the crown directly and twist it clockwise a few times, the watch instantly glows. Those automatic watches that you don’t wear often, and you don’t want it to stop, are screwed a few times a day and nothing is gone.
Stop at the table for 12 hours at noon
Many friends’ watches have a calendar display function, which is the simplest additional function of the watch in addition to indicating the current time. Many friends have encountered the situation where the calendar changes around 12 noon after the watch is stopped. This situation was very disturbing, so the owner of the watch, including me, stopped the watch at seven or eight in the morning, and let the watch go back at seven or eight in the evening, so that the calendar returned to normal. In fact, this is a stupid method. The correct and quick way is to pull the crown to the school time gear, and move the watch time forward 12 hours. Try this again next time.
The appearance of the word ‘observatory table’ is somewhat misleading. Literally you can easily understand that it is a watch dedicated to the observatory, which I originally understood. In fact, the observatory table has nothing to do with the observatory. The original wording of the observatory table is ‘Chronometer (the English and French spelling is slightly different)’. The literal translation means ‘precision timer’, which literally does not touch the observatory. Why was it translated into an observatory? This is related to its certification body. In the Kingdom of Watches and Clocks-Switzerland, there is a specialized institution for testing the accuracy of chronographs-The Swiss Offical Chronometer Control (referred to as COSC). The watch is called: Certified by the Swiss Official Observatory, also known as the ‘Observatory’ watch. The mechanical watch can obtain the observatory certification within the range of -4 to +6 seconds per day. Today’s friends who don’t like watches wear mobile phones to watch time. The accuracy of mobile phone clocks is higher than the observatory standard. It should be emphasized that the observatory certification system represents the development of Swiss watchmaking history, and it also symbolizes a kind of inheritance.
This nonsense is a phased product of clock and watch consumption. With the development of the market and the improvement of people’s consumption knowledge, the legend will slowly change or even disappear. Summarizing the text, I hope to add fun to everyone after dinner.