Approaching Perpetual Calendar Watches And Feeling The Power Of Classics

Perpetual calendar watches are not ‘every year’, but they can be guaranteed without manual adjustment by the owner during more than 90 years of operation. The accurate display of nearly a century is indeed an amazing achievement. There are numerous perpetual calendar watches, some of which are very powerful in function and some of which are beautiful in design. Let’s approach the perpetual calendar watch and feel the power of classics.

Calendar as proof

   Perpetual calendar watches are not only invented by only a few smart watchmakers, but gradually perfected after nearly three or four hundred years of repeated attempts. Today’s perpetual calendar watch boom has actually flourished since the mid-1980s, which can be clearly seen from auctions-before that, mainly larger pocket watches had perpetual calendar functions, and fewer watches For the perpetual calendar, Patek Philippe launched the 3450 automatic mechanical perpetual calendar at the Basel exhibition in 1981. People have seen the perpetual calendars come on the market since then, and then brands have launched their own perpetual calendars. So far, the perpetual calendars are more practical For example, the moon phase display, leap year display, etc. are added, and functions such as tourbillon and three questions are superimposed, and the technology has been greatly improved.

   Go deep into the movement and look at the general characteristics of the perpetual calendar: its movement is divided into two parts, one part is responsible for the ordinary timekeeping work of hours, minutes and seconds, and can be added timekeeping, three questions, tourbillon, etc. functional module. The other part is like a set of astronomical clocks. It is driven by a miniature satellite gear system. The whole system takes four years to complete one revolution. With the gears and levers in this system, the day of the week, date, year, and the corresponding big and small months and leap years are calculated and displayed continuously. Among them, the gear set in most perpetual calendar watches that instructs the month rotates once every 4 years, and each month correspondingly beats one space, which means that this gear set has 48 teeth. There is a disc on top of it. Months of different lengths of time on the disc have ‘tooth tips’ of different sizes, and it is they that drive the calendar to beat on time. The most typical representative of the above structure is Patek Philippe.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5971 perpetual calendar watch is a high-end jewelry model with complex functions.
Cartier complication watch
Athens Diver Perpetual Limited Edition technology breakthrough

Technical breakthrough

   From a technical perspective, there are several perpetual calendars that have to be mentioned. The Patek Philippe 5207 is equipped with a redesigned perpetual calendar device, which jumps quickly when changing dates, and can be completed in an instant, instead of the old perpetual calendar, which requires half an hour or several hours to move slowly to complete. IWC’s Portuguese uses a 4-digit year display, which even affected the launch of many perpetual calendars when it was launched, because this 4-digit display device is still a patent of IWC, and Gloss played a significant role as the inventor.

   In addition, the patent structure of Athens (Ulysse Nardin) allows the perpetual calendar to cross the 2100 mark for the first time, and more than that, no matter which date you can adjust the date before and after, this makes the perpetual calendar easy to use. Breakthrough is Zenith. With the high frequency of the El Primero movement, the perpetual calendar achieves high accuracy for the first time. In addition to the above models, each has gained something, and each has its own technical advantages.

Zenith Academy Tourbillon E1 Primero Quantieme Perpetual Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Nice and easy to use

   The perpetual calendar is also good-looking and easy to use, and the innovation of the movement is worth discussing. Patek Philippe’s 5159 is a good-looking and easy-to-use model. It is the latest achievement in the development of its movement: based on the 324 movement, the monthly gear rotation cycle is now 12 months, and it also uses the same planetary gear as Audemars Piguet. , But its structure is exactly the opposite-3 long and 1 short to show the days of February. The layout of the dial is very clear. The month at 3 o’clock, the week at 9 o’clock, the bouncing calendar occupying most of the dial, and the leap year display at 12 o’clock, sweeping the perpetual calendar is the traditional defect of ‘presbyopia (eye) killer’. Unlike other perpetual calendar watches, it changes the day, month, and leap year dials into embedded digital windows. This treatment increases the space inside the dial and makes it more elegant and noble, while the hand-carved sunburst in the center of the dial The layers bloom, creating a subtle contrast between the dial and the calm silvery white tone. As a well-known classic model of Patek Philippe, the rear case back dust cover is a major feature. The appearance of 51.59 million calendars reinterprets this legendary series. The overall case is slightly larger and the dial has been redesigned. This watch is based on pure and elegant white, and the overall shape is undoubtedly more simple and modern. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Tourbillon Calendar is the first time the brand has combined a tourbillon with a perpetual calendar. At the same time, it has benefited from the silicon escapement to make this complex watch more accurate. The dial of this watch is divided into two parts. The upper part displays the hour, minute and perpetual calendar instructions, and the lower part is equipped with a tourbillon. The appearance of this watch is exquisite and elegant, with a white dial faintly showing a perpetual calendar form, which reflects a restrained, luxurious and gentle aesthetic style.

Classical appearance

   Breguet 5447, proud of its three-question perpetual calendar, is the most classic style in classic style. The table improves the sounding characteristics of the three questions, and specifically modifies the coordinated resonance between the two gongs, so that the sound of the on-time, quarter-hour and minute sounds is more pure and harmonious. In addition, Breguet doubled the striking power of the bell hammer and moved the holder of the gong into the case, so that the tone was particularly clear. The second major complication of this watch is the perpetual calendar, with a coordinated 39 mm diameter. The movement built into the platinum case is entirely handmade, and at 10:30 on the dial, there is an exquisite bounce mechanism that displays the month. When the year is over, the pointer at the end of the arc jumps back to the position of one month in an instant and restarts its new round of operation. The calendar is displayed on the small dial at 6 o’clock, and the fine radiation pattern engraved on it corresponds to one day. The clear dial is elegant and practical, a masterpiece of Breguet designers.

Another way to design

   In recent years, the Bulgari Group has invested heavily, and the perpetual calendar has many excellent works. The appearance design is also different from the traditional perpetual calendar models, which is another option. To commemorate the 125th anniversary of the brand, Bulgari launched the Sotirio Bulgari watch series named after the founder. Equipped with its own movement 465, this watch cleverly combines many functions: it has a skeleton automatic tourbillon and a perpetual calendar function, and its innovative dial is equipped with a coaxial double retrograde hand. The combination of black and white tones always shows the simplicity and chill of modern design in the best place. The watch follows this aesthetic ideal. The radiating arc of fan-shaped engraving on the black dial indicates the infinite expansion of space. The date, day of the week, month, and leap year are displayed with dial-back hands, instead of the usual disc display.

The Lange Datograph Perpetual Calendar is German

   The German perpetual calendar, which is completely different from the Swiss watch style, has its own characteristics. The three brands A. Lange & Söhne, Glashütte Original, and Chronoswiss are very representative.

Various exhibitions

   There are countless perpetual calendars, some of which are very powerful in function, and some of which are beautiful in design. Adding a small function to the classic perpetual calendar model can immediately make the watch look special and even become a popular object. Many watchmaking masters know this. For example, Franck Muller has continuously expanded its most complicated watch, A Eternitas, to make this set of perpetual calendar, tourbillon, moon phase, self-sounding, three questions Other complicated functions also have a two-second chronograph. In this way, the functions are continuously superimposed, making the already “fun” watches more fun. The A Eternitas 4 watch is the most complicated watch in the world. It has a tourbillon, big and small self-sounding, three questions, a permanent calendar and a chronograph. It also has a lot of practical functions.